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One step to silky softness ...
Something near and dear to each of us -- our hair -- needs special care to stay soft and shiny. Sure, a good shampoo can clean your locks, but a conditioner takes things one step further, leaving each strand strengthened and moisturized. A conditioner can also add shine, softness, and body while detangling and smoothing away the frizzies. So if your shampoo leaves your hair yearning for more, consider using a conditioner as a final step.
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Smooth Away Your Troubles
Nothing's more annoying than a bad hair day. Frizzy, flyaway, unmanageable hair makes you want to hide your head in shame. But there's hope -- sitting right inside that bottle of conditioner on your bathroom shelf. It can add moisture, shine, softness, and body to your hair while smoothing and detangling.
Keep the following in mind when you're looking for a conditioner:
- Trial and error is the only way to judge how a shampoo or conditioner will work for you. If you're already using a shampoo you like, keep using it.
- In Consumer Reports tests, expensive shampoos and conditioners didn't always perform better than less expensive ones.
- Conditioners are usually 70% to 90% water, with the next two to eight ingredients listed making up 2% to 8% of the product. After that, ingredients making up less than 1% are listed randomly. Ingredients of less than 1% usually won't do much for your hair.
- A conditioner's thickness, color, and fragrance don't necessarily indicate its quality.
- Fancy plant extracts and exotic ingredients don't necessarily add value to a conditioner. In fact, they can make up only a small percentage by volume and may be even cause more irritation than "chemical" ingredients. Some "natural" ingredients that can cause skin irritation include almond extract, balm mint oil, balsam, chamomile, citrus, clover blossom, grapefruit, jojoba oil, lavender oil, papaya, peppermint, rose, rosemary, tea tree oil, thyme, and wintergreen. You may love the smell or results of these ingredients. But if a conditioner containing any of these bothers your scalp, switch to another brand.
Conditional Love
A conditioner works by either coating the hair with a thin film or, in some cases, actually working its way into the cuticle. Conditioners do work, but the effect is temporary. Any washing or even extensive exposure to water (like swimming or a long shower) will rinse it away. The effectiveness of products like conditioners and dandruff shampoos are directly related to the amount of contact time. Five to 20 minutes in the shower may seem like a lifetime, but you will see results.
- Leave-in conditioners are usually thinner versions of rinse-away conditioners and feel lighter because they don't contain thick oils and fatty acids.
- Beware of styling conditioners that include PVP, PVP/VA, acrylates, or acrylamide copolymer. These are hair-spray ingredients, which can make your hair feel brittle and sticky.
- Putting vegetable oils, mayonnaise, and eggs in your hair won't help much and requires extensive rinsing.
- Silicon conditioners are among the most popular and effective products available. They can prevent and reduce damage, allow easier combing and styling, and enhance shine and luster. They can both coat the hair with a thin film and penetrate the cuticle.
- A cream rinse can soften hair, add shine, and make hair easier to comb.
- Conditioning products can build up on hair after prolonged use. If you feel your hair getting oily and heavy, try switching products.
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Emollients
Emollients work by forming a protective layer, trapping moisture. They are all oily or oil-like chemicals. In fact, olive oil and other plant oils are very effective emollients, as are mineral or silicone oils. They can be very water-repellent like petrolatum and lanolin, which is good because if they keep moisture out, they also keep moisture in your hair.
Silicone-based oils
Silicone-based products are actually emollients. The difference is that they are synthetic. They help condition hair like other emollients by coating and helping prevent water loss.
Humectants
Humectants are novel chemicals that are added in soaps, hair care products, and lotions. Unlike emollients, which moisturize by trapping water in your hair, humectants actually attract water to your hair. However, they can be washed off very easily and therefore do not have the lasting power of emollients. Your best bet is a product that contains both an emollient and a humectant.
Balsams
Balsams are extracts from plants (branches, leaves, stalks). They contain resins (polysaccharides) that are sticky and have strong fragrances; they add scents to products. They also adhere to hair, which can impart a feeling of fullness and body, but can leave an unusual texture.
Proteins
Proteins are polymers (long chains) of amino acids. Some long proteins can coat the hair giving it a soft and full-bodied feel, but small amino acids do not penetrate the hair or rebuild damaged hair.
Chelators
Chelators help maintain the integrity of products by binding metal ions and preventing their interaction with other substances.
Preservatives
There are many different preservatives in conditioners, but they all work in one of two ways:
- By preventing the growth of microorganisms.
- By preventing the breakdown or degradation of other chemicals.
Preservatives are often (but not always) the culprit when you have an allergic reaction to a product.
Vitamins
Vitamins are often a component of cosmetic products in the hopes that they have magical restorative effects. They do not. But some have other less magical benefits working as emollients.
Surfactants
Getting dirt and oil off your hair would be quite hard without surfactants. Surfactants mix equally well in oily or watery substances or in mixtures containing both types of substances. They are the sudsy agents in soap and help get your hair clean. They are also used to ensure that all the various ingredients in products stay mixed together. You can think of surfactants as having two parts. One part likes to be nestled in oil, the other part prefers water. The net result: when you wash away the surfactant with water, the watery portion goes first, dragging along the oil-like half, which brings the dirt with it.
Quaternary ammonium compounds
These are incorporated into cosmetic products for a variety of purposes and in various concentrations. Quaternary ammonium compounds have properties of surfactants, disinfectants, preservatives, and emulsifiers.
Styling polymers
What keeps a soda bottle sturdy also holds your hair in the latest style. Hair styling polymers have much in common with the plastics that comprise soda bottles. They are both long chains of organic molecules. These polymers wrap around hair and give it extra support to keep it in place.
| Emollients | Ingredient | Description |
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| Fatty acids | ? | Stearic acid, lanolin acid, plasmatic acid, and oleic acid help soften the texture of hair. They are nontoxic. | | Fatty alcohols | ? | Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and lauryl alcohol help soften and maintain the moisture of hair. They are quite safe. | | Lanolin | ? | Derived from sheep wool, this oil helps prevent dehydration by absorbing water and hindering evaporation. It may cause scalp irritation. | | Mineral oil | ? | Derived from crude petroleum, it helps to prevent dehydration, soften hair, retain water in hair, and add shine to hair. It tends to attract dirt and increases the chance of styling product buildup. The oil can leave an undesirable, tacky feeling and must be washed out thoroughly, as it is hard to remove. | | Plant oils | ? | Coming from various plants (olives, corn, sunflower), they help prevent dehydration, soften hair, retain water, and add shine. They tend to attract dirt and increase the chance of styling product buildup. Oils may leave an undesirable, tacky feeling and must be washed out thoroughly, as they become hard to remove. | | Silicone-Based Oils | Ingredient | Description |
|---|
| Cyclomethicone | ? | Helps condition and protect hair; it has lubricant capabilites. | | Dimethicone | ? | Helps condition and protect hair; it has lubricant capabilites. | | Humectants | Ingredient | Description |
|---|
| Glycerin | ? | One of the most effective moisturizers, giving hair bounce and fullness by attracting and holding water in hair. It allows products to spread out better. There are no allergic reactions associated with this compound. | | Sorbitol | ? | Most effective in attracting and retaining water in the hair shaft, giving hair bounce and fullness. If ingested, an overdose may lead to diarrhea, but this product is generally safe. | | Propylene glycol | ? | Absorbs and retains water in the hair shaft, giving hair bounce and fullness. It's a solvent in many products. Though it works better than glycerin in penetrating the skin and carrying moisture, it's not as safe. | | Butylene glycol | ? | Attracts and retains water in the hair shaft, giving hair bounce and fullness. | | Polyethylene glycol (PEG) | ? | Moisturizes hair, giving hair bounce and fullness. It can also cause skin irritation and may be a problem for the scalp. | | Mucopolysaccarides | ? | Also referred to as glycosaminoglycans, these are a combination of protein and polysaccharide. They are excellent humectants. | | Sodium PCA | ? | Derived from proteins and a natural component of skin, it is an excellent humectant. | | Balsams | Ingredient | Description |
|---|
| Balsam Peru | ? | A resin often used in rinses, it can cause allergic reactions. It has slight antiseptic properties and may irritate the scalp. | | Balsam mecca | ? | An insoluble resin used to scent cosmetics. | | Balsam tolu | ? | A resin found in many cosmetic products as a fragrance. It can irritate the scalp. | | Balsam Oregon | ? | Also known as Douglas fir oil, it's a resin used in rinses and as a fragrance. | | Proteins | Ingredient | Description |
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| Collagen and elastin | ? | Condition by protectively coating the hair and improving its texture. Although they won't repair hair, they fill in the gaps of damaged cuticles. They can be hydrolyzed or nonhydrolyzed. | | Glycoproteins | ? | Condition by protectively coating the hair and improving its texture. Although they won't repair hair, they fill in the gaps of damaged cuticles. | | Soy and wheat protein | ? | Condition by improving hair texture and repairing damaged cuticles. | | Amino acids | ? | Too small to effectively coat and cover hair without being washed off, these do not condition as well as proteins. They also do not penetrate the hair to repair damage. | | Chelators | Ingredient | Description |
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| EDTA | ? | Commonly found in many cosmetic products, it reduces the number of unreactive ions in the product. | | Preservatives | Ingredient | Description |
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| Sorbic acid | ? | Used to inhibit the growth of fungi (mold and yeast), which is dependent on pH. | | Chlorhexidine | ? | A strong, basic antiseptic that exists as a powder, it has the potential to be very irritating. | | Polyquaternium-32 | ? | Also a quaternary ammonium compound, it has antimicrobial activity. | | Benzoic acid | ? | Effective against microbes, it may cause scalp irritations. | | Methylparaben | ? | Widely used with good antimicrobial properties, it's capable of causing allergic reactions. | | Propylparaben | ? | Effective against bacteria and fungi and can be used in all types of solutions. It's not as toxic as benzoic acid. | | Vitamins | Ingredient | Description |
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| Vitamin E | ? | Does not help protect hair from free radical damage, but it is a good emollient and can help soften hair. | | Panthenol | ? | Also known as vitamin B-5, it's safe and effective, and can condition hair through its emollient properties. | | Surfactants | Ingredient | Description |
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| Sodium lauryl sulfate | ? | A relatively strong surfactant, it should be avoided by people with sensitive skin or scalp, or anyone who has noticeable irritation. It has cleaning abilities and stabilizes the product. | | Sodium laureth sulfate | ? | A strong, rich, foaming cleanser that is milder and less drying than others. | | TEA lauryl sulfate | ? | A cleansing agent that should be avoided by people with sensitive skin or scalp, or anyone who has noticeable irritation. | | Ammonium lauryl sulfate | ? | A gentle hair cleansing agent, it should not be used by people with sensitive skin or scalp, or anyone who has noticeable irritation. | | Ammonium laureth sulfate | ? | A gentle hair cleansing agent, it adheres to compounds such as oil and dirt and breaks them apart. | | Cocamide (DEA, MEA) | ? | A mild cleanser that creates lather and rarely irritates skin. It is able to resist shrinkage, especially in cold temperature conditions. It can also condition and thicken hair. | | Cocamidopropyl betaine | ? | A fatty compound that cleans hair and helps lather, it can cause allergic reactions. | | Cococamphodiacetate | ? | A hair cleansing and lathering agent, this fatty compound can cause allergic reactions. | | Sodium cocoglyceryl ether sulfonate | ? | A fatty compound that cleans hair and helps lather, it can cause allergic reactions. | | Sodium lauryl sarcosinate | ? | A hair cleansing agent and excellent foam producer. | | Quaternary Ammonium Compounds | Ingredient | Description |
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| Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Dicetydimonium chloride | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Behentrimonium chloride | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Behenalkonium chloride | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Benzalkonium chloride | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Quaternium-18 | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Stearalkonium chloride | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Cetrimonium chloride | ? | Helps combine all the various chemicals and acts as a preservative. | | Styling Polymers | Ingredient | Description |
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| Polyvinylpyrrolidine (PVP) | ? | A type of plastic found in many cosmetic products, it is a good carrier of water and helps keep hair in place in hair spray. It can cause damage to internal organs if ingested or inhaled. | | Polyvinylpyrrolidine/vinyl acetate (PVP/VA) | ? | Found in leave-in conditioners, it can give hair form by holding it in place after styling. |
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Appropriate Uses
Leave-in conditioner
This product lightly conditions hair; adds body to fine, thin, or limp hair; and eases combing and detangling.
Rinse-out conditioner
Softens hair, adds body and improves hair texture; reduces frizziness; eases combing and detangling; and prevents dehydration of hair.
Misleading Claims
Leave-in conditioner
Does not restore, regenerate, repair, or strengthen damaged hair. Hair can look and feel better with conditioning, but it cannot be repaired. This product does not repair split ends in hair. Ingredients in conditioners can temporarily bond together split ends so they are less obvious, but they are not repaired. It cannot claim to replace lost keratin or increase the elasticity of hair. Conditioners cannot penetrate hair to change its chemical makeup; they can only work on the surface.
Rinse-out conditioner
Does not restore, regenerate, repair, or strengthen damaged hair. Damaged hair can look and feel better with conditioning, but it cannot be repaired. This product does not repair split ends in hair. Ingredients in conditioners can temporarily bond together split ends so they are less obvious, but they are not repaired. It cannot claim to replace lost keratin or increase the elasticity of hair. Conditioners cannot penetrate hair to change its chemical make-up; they can only work on the surface.
Give It Time to Do Its Job
- Apply a small, quarter-sized amount of product to clean, wet hair.
- Massage and leave on hair at least one minute. The longer you leave any conditioner in your hair, the more work it can do, especially in a hot shower, because your hair may swell and become more permeable.
- Rinse off product thoroughly.
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The Right Conditions
- Do not use if you are allergic to any ingredient in the product.
- Avoid contact with eyes, nose, and mouth.
Conditioning Can Go Both Ways
- Conditioning oily hair can make it even oilier.
- Overconditioning can leave hair flat and limp, especially if you have fine hair.
- Using conditioner may result in breakouts and allergic reactions.
- Propylene glycol may irritate the skin and scalp.
- Balsam may cause hair to become sticky and brittle.
- Overuse of protein-penetrating conditioners may cause the hair to become brittle.
- Leave-in conditioners may cause buildup.
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Websites, Organizations & Manufacturers
Sources & Further Reading
Books
- 1. Scali-Sheahan, MT.Milady's Standard Textbook of Professional Barber Styling. Milady Publishing Company, Albany, NY, 1984.
- 2. Begoun, P.Don't Go Shopping For Hair Care Products Without Me. Beginning Press, Seattle, WA, 1995.
- 3. Winter, R.A Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Random House, Ince. New York 1994.
- 4. Michalun, N and MV Michalun.Skin Care and Cosmetic Ingredients Dictionary. Milday Pub. Co. Albany, NY 1994.
Find more books on health and wellness at  barnesandnoble.com.
Articles
- 1. Rosen, MR.Hair Conditioning Silicones: At the Cutting Edge. Drug & Cosmetic Industry; Vol. 162 8/1/98.
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