Outdoor Equipment

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Outdoor Equipment

It's hard to explain the allure of well-crafted sporting gear, just like it's hard to put into words the feelings you might have for a lithe, intelligent, good-humored woman whose long legs slide past the refined patterns of a silk dress, whose hair rakes without pretense over one eye, whose body shape suggests sublime physical pleasures, whose sharp wit promises intriguing verbal jousts. . . .

Come to think of it, it's a lot more difficult to explain rationally the allure of equipment. But hardware definitely holds seductive appeal. We've heard from men, for example, who say they sleep with their mountain bikes. Whether or not it's true, the fact that any man would voice such a claim and expect other men to understand goes a long way toward suggesting the depths of the male desire for extremely cool and probably expensive toys.

As with other objects of desire, when the time comes to commit financially and emotionally to years, if not decades, of shared experiences, you want to know you've made the right choice. There's only one way to do that, and that's to know what you're looking for before you do the looking. We covered indoor exercise equipment in Setting Up a Home Gym on page 312. Now it's time to head for the great outdoors.

How to Buy

Before getting into the particulars of specific types of equipment, we should note that the experts we spoke with had one bit of advice in common (which they share with experts of indoor equipment): Buy from an outfitter or specialty store. Salespeople there are best qualified to match good equipment to your needs, abilities and physical potential. Unfortunately, it's maddeningly easy to find specialized salespeople who can't find the words to express what they know, or choose to intimidate customers rather than show them the way. Dealing with the inarticulate or the snooty is another reason to be prepared with the following when you buy sports equipment.

Bicycles

The great thing about bikes is that we learned most of the essential skills necessary to use them when we were still forming lines behind Teacher to use the potty. The machine you learned on, however, likely resembled nothing you'll find in stores today. True, all bikes have two wheels, pedals and a handlebar, but to outfit yourself, you'll need to look beyond these basics and make some decisions.

Survey the terrain. The major choice is between road bikes, which have smooth, skinny tires to minimize resistance on paved surfaces, and mountain bikes, which have knobby, fat tires to improve traction and absorb impact on off-road trails. The road bike, once known as the ten-speed, was the standard for years. Then, in the 1990s, the astonishing ascendance of mountain bikes pushed most road bikes off dealers' racks, just like CDs replaced vinyl in record stores.

Because of their overwhelming popularity, assume from here on that we're talking about mountain bikes, but don't give up on the idea of buying a road model. Think first and foremost about where you'll do most of your riding. Aside from a certain of-the-moment cachet, there's no reason to buy a mountain bike if you won't be riding it off-road: With their thick tires and low gears (for hauling up steep, scrabbly hills), mountain bikes are sluggards on asphalt.

A third category of bike, called the hybrid, combines features of mountain and road bikes (tires, for example, are thicker and knobbier than a road bike's, but thinner and less grippy than a mountain bike's). Most serious riders consider hybrids a sorry compromise, however: They're not rugged enough for real off-road riding and not efficient enough to perform well on extended road rides.

Rate the rattle factor. Much of the go-anywhere excitement of mountain biking hinges on the ability to bounce across rocks, jump over stumps and dive off small cliffs. Basically, there's a whole lot o' shakin' going on, and you'll need to decide how badly you need shock absorbers to handle it. Your need will depend on the kind of riding you do. A person who does moderate rails-to-trails riding on level grades doesn't need suspension the way a guy who lives to speed down mountainsides at 40 miles an hour does. The most popular cushioning system involves suspension built into the fork. (A fork connects the front wheel to the bike's frame.) Suspension forks compress vertically under the force of a hard impact, softening a blow that would otherwise be taken mostly by your hands and arms. Fully suspended models have frames that suspend the rear wheel, too. These don't come cheap: They cost 33 to 100 percent more than a bike with a front suspension. Are the bucks worth the benefit? Your call.

Choose your material. Road and mountain bike frames can be built with different materials, each of which has its advantages and drawbacks. The oldest and most familiar is steel alloy (usually steel mixed with other metals such as chromium and molybdenum)—"cro-moly" in gearhead lingo. Steel is strong and highly durable, but heavy. The most popular alternative is aluminum, which is lighter and doesn't rust, but stiffer and more jarring than steel. A dream material that combines steel's strength with aluminum's lightness exists in the form of titanium; "ti" remains a dream for many cyclists, however, because it's pricey—$1,500 and up for a complete bike.

Which to choose? There are no clear winners or losers here, says Fred Zahradnik, technical editor for Bicycling magazine. You'll find high-end bikes made of all these materials except mild steel (the stuff they make department store bikes out of).

What will sway you toward one bike or another are additional factors such as the quality of the braking and drivetrain components (let your bike shop expert be your guide) and, more fundamentally, how well you like the feel of the bike when you ride it. And you will ride it before you buy: Any shop that balks at test rides should not be getting your business.

Skis

There's been an explosion of diversity in ski design recently, which is good because it provides lots of choices for people at all skill levels. But it also makes a trip to your local ski shack more confusing. The basic categories of slalom and giant slalom have now been joined by parabolics, which, compared to regular skis, are much wider at the tip and tail and much narrower in the waist; powder skis, which are shorter and wider than skis designed for harder-packed snow; and all-terrain, or mountain skis, designed to handle both powder and hardpack. If you're in the market, here's how to proceed.

Start with boots. "If the boots don't fit, the rest of your experience won't be pleasant no matter what kind of ski you have," says Mary Jo Tarallo, director of public relations for Ski Industries America in McLean, Virginia. Fitting issues are much the same as for shoes: The heel shouldn't slip, and your digits should fill the toe box but not ride the front of the boot. Wear socks like those you'll wear on the slopes; be sure to fit both feet—and plan on spending 20 minutes in the boots while still in the store, to let irritating pressure points reveal themselves. While you're waiting, ask the salesperson if they have a test platform on which you can simulate the movements you'll make on skis.

Assess local conditions. The type of ski you get depends on the kind of skiing you like to do, how often you plan to do it and, perhaps most important, the type of snow and terrain that prevails in areas where you'll go the most. Individual preferences play a huge role, but here are some general guidelines from Lisa Feinberg Densmore, a former member of the U.S. Ski Team.

* Giant slalom is now considered the best all-around ski for both short turns and long turns, powder and hardpack if you're a skilled skier, says Densmore. If you're less skilled and hit the slopes on fewer than a half-dozen occasions a year, consider a less performance-oriented all-terrain ski.

* For taking moguls (bumps) and quick turns on the fall line (the most direct path gravity takes you down a slope), opt for more nimble slalom skis.

* For skiers of intermediate or higher skill who want to cruise without working too hard at carving turns, consider shaped or parabolic skis, whose hourglass shape makes for easy changes of direction.

Run the bases. What's inside a ski doesn't matter as much as what's outside, especially on the bottom, or base. Virtually all bases are made of a plastic material called P-Tex, which comes in three grades, according to how well the material glides over snow. "Beginners are often afraid that a better glide means they'll go too fast, but glide isn't a speed issue, it's a control and ease-of-turning issue," Densmore says. "Get as good a base as you can afford."

Factor in your weight. Skis are rated according to the level of skill they're designed for, but if you weigh more than 200 pounds, you can't go by these ratings. "The heavier you are, the more ski you need," Densmore says. "Buy skis one level up; they'll be stiffer and more responsive." Also, avoid cores made of foam, which will quickly lose their bounce under a heavy person, in favor of layered cores containing materials like fiberglass, wood, metal and graphite.

Sweat the details. They can make all the difference.

* Look beyond skin-deep beauty on graphics: Colors should penetrate into the material to prevent inevitable gouges from marring designs.

* Make sure there's metal in the core of giant slalom skis, to ensure superior stability at high speed. Make sure there's little or no metal in slalom or parabolic skis, to ensure livelier performance.

* Look down the length of a ski like you're looking down the barrel of a rifle. If you detect any waves, bumps or irregularities in the finish, choose a different ski.

* To avoid having to fight your way through turns, make sure the metal edges of the tip and tail are rounded off, or "de-tuned," and the base is level with the edges. If the edges are raised above the P-Tex, like rails, the ski will be difficult to turn.

Snowboarding, anyone? They're not skis, but snowboards nevertheless are longish objects you strap your feet into for shushing down hills—except both feet go onto one board. Like mountain biking, snowboarding has quickly become a huge, distinct sport. There are three types of snowboards, but most people use "free-riding" models, which merge the greater lightness and speed of the other types, the freestyle and the Alpine, respectively. There are two types of boots. The first type, soft boots, you lace up, then attach into the board binding. They're flexible, easy to use and most popular. Hard boots, which look like ski boots, provide less flexibility and can demand more skill, says Tarallo.

Getting Gear from Here to There

The major problem with bikes, skis, snowboards, canoes, kayaks and other sporting paraphernalia is where to put them. Not where to store them (that's a separate issue whose ramifications need to be hammered out with landlords and/or living companions), but where to put them when you're transporting them from your domicile to wherever funhog heaven is. You could ride, paddle and otherwise self-propel yourself, but for the most part, we're talking about hauling big gear with cars. For that, you'll need a rack.

The first consideration is how often or how far you'll be transporting. For example, if you transport your bike only a few times a season or only drive short distances, you can get by with a rear-mounted rack that clips onto the edges of a hatchback or trunk. These racks, by makers such as Rhode Gear, are inexpensive (usually under $100) but less secure than the major category of "load-carrying systems," the roof rack.

Roof racks are preferable for frequent or long-distance hauling because they're strong, sturdy and extremely secure (they hold gear tightly and also allow you to lock it onto your vehicle), and they evenly distribute weight. Every roof rack consists of two essential elements: bars (usually two) that support whatever you're carrying, and "towers" (typically four), which are structural components that both hold the bars off the roof and affix them to your car. Onto these elements are attached the actual racks that carry your gear. All of this stuff is sold separately.

What you require to make a working system depends entirely on what you're carrying and the make of your vehicle. Some racks, for example, clamp onto your car or van's rain gutter. But if you don't have a rain gutter (and fewer new cars do), you'll need a tower that clips to the door frame or attaches via some other method. One major rack manufacturer, Thule, has more than 200 different "fit kits" for various vehicles.

Thule (pronounced TOO-lee) and Yakima (pronounced YAK-imaw) are the two major manufacturers for versatile carry-anything roof racks. (With some sports, like skiing, additional manufacturers such as Barrecrafter make racks just for that kind of gear.) Both make excellent products with similar prices. "I really can't recommend one over the other without knowing what kind of car you have," says Dan Fleckinger, a sales representative and former manager of the car rack department at Recreational Equipment Incorporated in Conshohocken, Pennsylvania.

If you're in the market for a rack, however, there are a few things you might want to consider before you buy.

* How many cars you'll use. "Thule has a lot of specialty racks for cars like VWs," Fleckinger says. "A specialty rack will fit better, but you won't be able to use it on a different car." Many racks, however, will fit more than one kind of vehicle. Make up your mind which is more important, fit or versatility.

* How long you'll own your car. Load-carrying systems aren't cheap: Figure on paying upwards of $200 to carry just one item, says Fleckinger. That's a hefty investment to a lot of us, and it may not be worth making if you're planning on getting a different car next year.

* How soon you need it. The place you buy from might not have the parts you need, so you can't always walk into the store and just cart off your rack. Shop for your rack at least three weeks before you think you need it, to allow time to order the right components. If you have a new car that just came on the market, call ahead to make sure components are already available.

Canoes

Canoeing seems such an uncomplicated, peaceful pursuit, but any form of self-propulsion has its challenges. A good boat can ease your burden (not to be sniffed at if you happen to be carrying the thing over land) and increase the pleasure you take in your surroundings. Here's what to consider, according to Chuck Weis, editor at large for Paddler magazine and chairman of the National Touring and Recreational Paddling Committee of the American Canoe Association.

Chart the waters ahead. Are you heading for turbulent rapids, setting off gear-burdened across vast expanses or launching for an afternoon of lazy paddling in a local recreational area? In answer, the categories of canoes are defined with befitting simplicity.

* White-water canoes are highly maneuverable in the interests of dodging boulders and forceful vortexes. If you're deficient in the dodging department, they're also outfitted with flotation bags, which take up room other canoes make available for stowing gear. Much of a white-water model's nimbleness lies in what's called the rocker of the boat—how much the hull curves lengthwise between bow and stern. With a lot of rocker, a white-water canoe has more curvature, less wetted surface and less resistance to side-to-side motion. "It'll turn on a dime and give you nine cents change," says Weis. Which isn't great when you want to paddle in a straight line.

* Touring canoes are more straight-ahead vessels and make an excellent all-purpose choice. "You can take them on lakes, rivers—or use them to get serious and take off for a month in the Canadian north," Weis says. Touring canoes are generally more stable than white-water canoes, are longer (17 to 18½ feet) and have higher sides—all of which enable you to load them up with gear or young offspring. The hull has a definite bow and stern, with a fine, narrow line tapering to the front, and a broader line toward the back. This design allows for efficient slicing through water and good tracking—the ability to hold to a straight line.

* Freestyle and marathon canoes are more specialized. Freestyle models are designed for the man who delights in the grace and finesse of paddling in still water with minimal strokes—often not even lifting the paddle past the sheen of the surface. There's nothing radical about freestyle canoes, but they're short, leaving little room for gear. They're also lighter, making them relatively easy to tote around. "They're good for the weekend or after-work paddler," Weis says. Marathon canoes are more hard-core, designed for competition (yes, people even use canoes to race) or any other situation in which you need to go straight fast. They're light, narrow and pointy, with very little rocker—not good to take anyplace you might encounter white water.

* Multipurpose canoes, which are what you find in big department stores, are a category altogether lost on seasoned paddlers. Wide, flat and lacking in performance, they're what an old pick-up truck is to a high performance sports car, says Weis. "If you're serious, look for a good canoe shop where you'll find knowledgeable salespeople and hopefully have the opportunity to test-paddle the boats, even if you have to drive a state away to find it," he implores.

Get the hull story. A canoe's performance isn't just about design, but about what the hull is made of, according to Weis.

* ABS plastic is the favored material for white-water canoes, because of its batter-resistant combination of strength and flexibility. Polyethylene plastic is a lesser material, but one that's still reasonably strong—and $200 to $300 less expensive.

* Fiberglass is well-suited for touring boats because of its strength, durability and low cost relative to Kevlar, which is stronger and lighter. There's no need to spring for Kevlar unless you're planning on doing a lot of portaging. If you get fiberglass, though, make sure it's made in a process called hand layup, as opposed to chopper-gun layup, which produces a heavier, less flexible hull.

* Aluminum finds favor only in the realm of the multipurpose boat. "It's at the bottom of the performance scale," Weis says. One problem: It'll stick to rocks that other materials glide over. On the plus side, "it will take a beating," Weis says.

Decide if you want company. Canoes come in either solo or tandem designs—a simple matter of having one seat or two. Tandems are slightly larger and are best for families and stowing large amounts of gear. "Go solo unless you have good reason not to," Weis advises. "Even a lot of couples ultimately find life easier in solo boats."